Prepare stormwater works around the approved drainage layout and the natural falls of the property.
Heavy rain tests every property, and Sutherland Shire Stormwater Drainage directs water safely away from your home, yard and neighbours. We excavate and install pipes, pits and connections that handle runoff reliably.
Tell us where water pools, how your site falls and any council connection requirements. A clear drainage plan prevents flooding, protects foundations and avoids disputes with adjoining properties.
From Gymea, Kirrawee and Sylvania to Cronulla, Caringbah and Miranda, sloping blocks and older systems often struggle in storms. Experienced crews deliver neat installations and reinstate your surfaces once the work is complete.
Explore the scope ↓We install stormwater pipes, pits and connections to carry runoff safely away from your home, linking downpipes, surface drains and grated pits into one system, protecting foundations and preventing flooding in your yard and surrounding areas, even during heavy storms.
Every system is installed with proper falls and an approved discharge point, such as the street kerb or an easement where permitted, ensuring water flows freely and does not create problems for neighbouring properties, even during prolonged heavy rainfall events.
After installation, trenches are backfilled and surfaces restored, with turf, pavers or gravel reinstated to match surrounding areas, leaving your lawn, paths and driveway tidy, so you can enjoy your property again without long-term disruption, saving you extra landscaping costs.
Find out where the approved plan sends the water: the kerb, a Council pit, an on-site system or a legal easement. Everything else is levelled back from that point, so confirm its depth and location on site before digging starts.
Run Dial Before You Dig, then pothole where lines cross the trench. Private stormwater lines, old clay pipes and buried pits are not on those plans, so expect surprises in older Shire yards and allow time to expose them safely.
Pipes need a continuous fall toward the outlet, with pits at changes of direction and low points. Levels are taken from the drawings or the builder's survey marks, not guessed by eye, and checked by laser as pipes go in.
Trench to the specified depth with a firm, even base, remove sharp rock, place bedding sand or gravel, then lay the pipe. Sandy trench sides can collapse quickly, so open only what can be laid and covered the same day.
Pipe joining, connection to downpipes and tie-in to the street system is plumbing work for a licensed plumber or drainer. Leave the trench open until the required inspection is done. The plumber also tests joints and supplies the compliance paperwork.
Backfill in thin layers around the pipe, compacting each one so the surface does not sink later, and keep rocks off the pipe crown. Lawn, paving or concrete goes back only after finished surface levels and pit lids are checked.
What is allowed depends on your approval, the slope and the soil. Check with Council or your certifier before choosing.
The simplest outcome where the block falls toward the street. A pipe runs to a kerb outlet or the street drainage system, built to Council requirements. Kerb and footpath work may need separate Council approval, so check before work starts.
Council may require a tank or basin that holds peak flow and releases it slowly. It needs a hydraulic design and room on the lot, so raise it early. Tanks under driveways also need trafficable lids and access for cleaning.
Possible where soil drains well and setbacks allow. Clay and shallow sandstone often rule it out, so test before you commit. A percolation test and Council's drainage policy show whether they are suitable and how many the roof area needs.
Tanks reduce runoff but still need an overflow that goes somewhere approved. It is a common gap in plans. The overflow line should handle a full tank in heavy rain and must not spill onto a neighbour or against footings.
Where the plan allows either, think about who will maintain it in ten years.
Most lots use both: pits at low points in the yard, inspection openings along the roof lines.
Stormwater must never be connected to the sewer. It overloads the system and is a breach of plumbing rules. Older houses sometimes have downpipes feeding sewer lines that must be redirected. If you find an old connection, tell the plumber.
A pipe with no fall holds water and silts up. A reversed fall pushes water back toward the house, and pipe laid on soft bedding can sag and lose its fall. Check levels before backfilling, not after the first storm.
Discharging across a boundary can create liability and disputes. That includes concentrated flow from new paving, regrading or a pipe outlet aimed straight at the side fence. Water should be kept on your lot until it reaches the approved point.
Pits covered by pavers or concrete cannot be cleaned. A blocked line then means breaking up new work. Agree finished levels with the landscaper before the pits are set. Grates should sit slightly below finished paving so water reaches them.
Heavy rain tests every property, and our stormwater experts build systems that cope. We install pipes, pits and connections with proper falls and an approved discharge point, protecting your foundations and preventing flooding in your yard and your neighbours'. Clear communication helps you understand the plan, the council requirements and the likely costs before work begins. With local knowledge of Sutherland Shire sloping blocks, ageing systems and stormwater rules, we design practical solutions that perform during storms. Trenches are backfilled and surfaces reinstated neatly, leaving your lawn, paths and driveway tidy and your whole property protected for years to come.
Talk to our team ↗ Drainage design, discharge point and connection levels.
Ask us about your project ↗It depends on the work. Pipes forming part of a DA or CDC are shown on the approved plans, and Council or your certifier can tell you if anything extra is needed. Plumbing connections are done by a licensed plumber.
No. Stormwater should never be connected to the sewer. It goes to Council's system, the kerb or an approved on-site system.
It varies with the discharge level, the pipe size and the falls needed. Deeper than 1.5 m triggers specific excavation safety controls, so ask how the trench will be supported.
Often yes, but old lines are frequently shallow and not on any plan. Hand-digging or potholing finds them before the machine does.
Share the address, the access and the result you need.
Details first. Then a plan that suits the site.